How is Shell Cordovan Made? An In-Depth Look at the Tanning Process

Shell Cordovan is one of the most exclusive leathers in the world, known for its deep shine, strength and unique aging. It is often used for luxury shoes, wallets and watch straps. But how is this special leather made? Let's take a step-by-step look at the tanning process.

What is Shell Cordovan?

Shell Cordovan does not come from cows, like regular leather, but from horses. It is specifically the dense, fibrous "shell" layer under the skin, located around the buttocks. This makes the leather rare and precious. Rocado Tannery in Tuscany is one of the few tanneries that masters this craft, with a tradition of more than 40 years of experience.

The process in six steps

1. Hide Selection : Only top quality horse hides are used, with consistent thickness and minimal imperfections.

2. Preparation : The skin is depilated and freed of fat and meat, leaving only the shell. This is cut into round shapes.

3. Vegetable tanning : The shell is immersed for months (up to six) in natural tanning agents, such as oak bark extracts. This gives the leather its strength and flexibility.

4. Oiling and nourishing : After tanning, oils are added to make the leather supple and protect it from cracking, while enhancing its natural shine.

5. Planing and Polishing : The top is precision planed smooth and polished, sometimes with glass or rollers, for that mirror-like finish.

6. Coloring and finishing : The leather is dyed in deep shades such as burgundy ("Color 8"), black or brown, and given a final protective layer.

What makes it unique?

The result is a leather that does not wrinkle, but develops subtle rolling patterns that become more beautiful with age. It is also abrasion-resistant, water-resistant and extremely durable - ideal for products that need to last. The density of the shell gives it a smoothness that other leathers cannot match.

Conclusion

Making Shell Cordovan is a slow, artisanal process that requires craftsmanship. From the selection of the hide to the finishing touch, every step contributes to the luxury and quality. It is no wonder that this leather is so popular with lovers of exclusive products.