The history and origin of Shell cordovan leather

At Ton Liontarion, we’re all about craftsmanship and quality, which is why we work with Shell Cordovan leather – a material with a story as rich as its sheen. But where does this special leather actually come from, and how did it become such a beloved choice for artisans and luxury lovers? Let’s dive into the history and origins of Shell Cordovan leather.

An unexpected origin: From horses to luxury

Shell Cordovan leather doesn’t start in a typical tannery, but from an unexpected source: horses. It’s made specifically from the “shell” – a tough, fibrous layer beneath the skin of a horse’s hindquarters. This part is unique in its density and strength, but also in its scarcity. Only a small portion of the horse yields this special layer, making it naturally exclusive.

The name “Cordovan” refers to the city of Córdoba in Spain, a historic center of leatherworking. As early as the Middle Ages, craftsmen there were masters of working horsehide, which they used for everything from saddles to shoes. This leather was known as “cordwain” or “cordovan,” a term that later stuck. But it wasn’t until much later that Shell Cordovan as we know it today, with its iconic sheen and durability, took on its modern form.

From medieval craft to American perfection

Although Cordovan leather originated in Europe, Shell Cordovan as we know it became an American success story. In the 19th century, the Horween Leather Company in Chicago – still the name when it comes to Shell Cordovan – began experimenting with horsehide. They perfected a vegetable tanning process that takes months and gives the leather its signature properties: a deep shine, unmatched strength and a patina that only gets better with age.

Horween began supplying this leather to shoemakers, who used it for luxury men's shoes. Especially in the early 20th century, Shell Cordovan became a symbol of sophistication. Think of the classic "Alden" shoes - those shiny burgundy brogues your grandfather might have worn. The leather became so popular that it achieved almost mythical status among connoisseurs.

Why horse leather?

You might be wondering: why horse and not cow, like most leathers? The answer lies in the structure of the shell. Horse leather from this part has almost no pores, which makes it extremely smooth and durable. Unlike cow leather, which is often split into layers, Shell Cordovan remains one solid piece. This not only makes it stronger, but also perfect for accessories that need to last, like the wallets and belts we make at Ton Liontarion.

In the past, horsehide wasn’t just used for luxury. During the Middle Ages and even into the early modern period, it was a practical material for military equipment such as boots and saddles. But it was the transition to a luxury product that really put Shell Cordovan on the map.

A craft that endures

Making Shell Cordovan is not mass-produced – and that’s a good thing. The tanning process, which can take up to six months, requires patience and precision. The hides are worked by hand, tanned with natural substances such as tree bark, and then carefully polished. This artisanal process has remained virtually unchanged since Horween’s early days, and it’s that dedication that makes the leather so special.

Today, almost all Shell Cordovan comes from Horween, which is still a family business. Their leather is used worldwide by top brands and workshops like us at Ton Liontarion. But demand often exceeds supply, which makes it even more exclusive.

Do you have a soft spot for materials with a story? Or did you already know about the special origins of Shell Cordovan? Let us know in the comments - we'd love to hear what you think!